14 common jeans and pants fitting adjustments // Closet Case Files

14 COMMON JEANS & PANTS FITTING ADJUSTMENTS


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14-common-pants-&-jeans-fitting-adjustments

Oh pants. Does anything strike more terror into the heart of a sewist than these two tubes of fabric? Sometimes I’m not sure if people are talking about pants fitting or the apocalypse, for all the fear and anxiety tied up in it.

Can I be blunt? Chill out. While I think its commendable that a lot of people strive for fit greatness, I think far too many of us get so caught up by drag lines that we can’t see the forest for the trees (or the jeans for our knees!) Nobody else is paying that much attention to the back of your thighs and you’re still looking better than you do in RTW, so just take a big, deep, cleansing breath and be okay with it not being 100% perfect. If you need a reminder about why perfection and fear will ruin your sewing, read this post and stop talking yourself out of trying new things, or enjoying the things that you make.

Having said that, I did want to create a quick resource for common fit issues you may encounter with your Morgan Jeans. Technically these will apply to any pattern so hopefully you will find this helpful for pants-making in general. If you’ve made the Ginger Jeans before, adjustments may vary this time around since the draft is so different (they are not based on the same block, if you were wondering).

My biggest piece of advice for non-stretch jeans is to actually wear your first pair for a full day before you come to any conclusions. Denim can relax a great deal and things you notice when you first try them on might become non-issues once you’ve stretched out your seams a bit.

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Seamwork radio

BEING INTERVIEWED FOR THE SEAMWORK RADIO PODCAST


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Seamwork radio

Last fall, Sarai Mitnick was in Montreal on holiday and we had a chance to finally meet. She brought her recording equipment, and over tea in my studio we had a long talk for Seamwork radio. It was a discussion I thought about many, many times over the coming months. Sarai has that empathic introvert’s gift of getting people to really open up, and I found myself talking about my life and personal history in a way I never had before (at least publicly). Listening back this weekend, I was happy to discover my low-level anxiety about it was unfounded. What felt like over-sharing at the time just feels honest now. If you’re interested in hearing a little more about my life than I generally share on the blog, you can do so here.

All of the Seamwork episodes are great and I highly suggest subscribing using whatever podcast service you use (Downcast is my preferred choice on Iphone). I conducted this interview with Gretchen Jones last year; you may also like Jenny Rushmore’s episode, and talking about male sewing with Mathew Holiday.

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String Quilt // This week in sewing blogs vol. 87 // Closet Case Files

THIS WEEK IN SEWING BLOGS vol. 87


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String Quilt // This week in sewing blogs vol. 87 // Closet Case Files

Happy Sunday gang! I’ve had a lovely weekend catching up with old friends, dusting off the barbecue (THE GLORIOUS RETURN OF 15 MINUTE DINNERS!), working on my lap quilt, and finally addressing a stack of half finished projects that have been neglected due to the craziness of the Morgan Jeans launch. Most of these projects are jeans, believe it or not; by Sunday night I should have three new pairs to add to my groaning stack. I always make a new pair for demo purposes during Ginger jean workshops but they never quite get finished so I’m happy to clean up that WIP pile. Guillaume has been unrelenting about his desire for a pair (I did make him some last year for Christmas that were COMICALLY too small, hence why I never blogged them), but since I have a class coming up at the Workroom next week, I think it might be time to make him a demo pair and get that French monkey off my back.

You can tell it’s spring; my blog feed is groaning with me-made excitement.

ADMIRE

A couple of Morgan Jeans have cropped up already from some of my pattern testers. I love the fit on Carolyn’s , and That Black Chic did some awesome pattern hacking with her handpainted and super oversized pair.

Lladybird Lauren is making me pine for prom with this gorgeous dress.

Kelli is such a print master; I love the Colfax dresses she made for her sewalong. Speaking of Colfax isn’t this raw silk red one from Helen a beaut?

No words for this cherry print number from Ada Spragg that isn’t some variation on GAH,

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Distressed-Boyfriend-Jeans-styling-inspiration

MORGAN BOYFRIEND JEANS // STLYING & INSPIRATION


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Hey folks! So thrilled by your amazing response to our new pattern, the Morgan Boyfriend Jeans. I think its our best-selling pattern debut yet, so thank you very much! An extraordinary amount of time went into engineering Morgan, and I can’t wait to see how you make them (I’ve been reposting some of the tester versions on Instagram in case you’re curious!)

Today I want to share some of the inspiration I’ve collected while working on this pattern. Because of  Pinterest algorithms (ie. robots who seem to always know what I’m working on, not creepy at all), my entire feed was basically jeans for months at a time. I managed to build quite a crazy collection of inspo images on some of my pattern inspiration boards. Here are a few favourites.

Boyfriend-Jeans-styling-inspiration

one // two // three // four // five // six // seven // eight // nine // ten

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Morgan-Boyfriend-Jeans-sewing-pattern

INTRODUCING THE MORGAN BOYFRIEND JEANS PATTERN (PLUS DENIM & NOTIONS KITS!)


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Morgan-Boyfriend-Jeans-sewing-pattern

Apparently I just can’t get jeans out of my system. Today I’m happy to announce our new (and most requested!) sewing pattern: Morgan Boyfriend Jeans, now available in print and PDF!

You may have noticed that vintage Levi 501s and more relaxed fitting jeans are having a major resurgence and I’ve been all over it. While I still love my Ginger skinnies, there is something refreshing about the feeling of 100% cotton jeans; they mold to your body in a totally personal way, are extraordinarily comfortable once you’ve broken them in, and are a welcome alternative to the skin-tight silhouette we’ve all been wearing for the last ten years or so.

I’ve tried on dozens of pairs in search of the best fit and wanted  to design the perfect pair of 100% cotton jeans; slim without being tight, relaxed without being baggy. Boyfriend jeans that actually look good on girlfriends.

So without further ado…..

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files

Meet Morgan, slim boyfriend jeans designed for non-stretch & selvedge denim. Inspired by old school denim style but with a fresh, modern cut, Morgan Jeans are engineered to flatter.

Featuring a mid-rise, traditional five pocket construction, contoured waistband, tapered leg and button fly, Morgan fits snugly through the hip but relaxes and conforms to your curves with a little wear. Choose between a regular or cropped inseam, and add an optional leather waistband patch for a sly nod to designer denim.

Buy Morgan Jeans!

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files

This pattern went through 3 rounds of testing until we settled on a sizing model and silhouette that worked on as broad a range of body types as possible.

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This Week in Sewing Blogs. vol 86 // Monochrome quilting cottons

THIS WEEK IN SEWING BLOGS vol. 86


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This Week in Sewing Blogs. vol 86 // Monochrome quilting cottons

Happy Sunday makers! I’m currently in Ottawa teaching a Ginger Jeans workshop to a great group of ladies at Fabrications, a lovely little jewel box of a shop. I was so inspired by their beautiful collection of quilting cottons that in between demos I bought a little stack of fat quarters to finally tackle the lap quilt I’ve been promising to make for the last eighteen million years. After browsing some of their quilting books, I was happy to find a pattern that will let me just free-form jazz it (a little more my speed), along with some tone on tone grey and black prints. I think it will be a  pretty chic little beast when all is said and done.

We’re also finally ready to launch Morgan, our new pattern! Stay tuned tomorrow morning for the official launch; we’ve got a couple of new products in addition to the pattern that I think you’ll be excited about.

Now, on to you!

ADMIRE

Try not to squeal out loud when you see this spectacular embroidered dress on The Wallinna. My inner Ukrainian was absolutely tickled.

Can we all agree that Peter Lappin is the ULTIMATE SEWING BAD@SS?

This lace wedding dress on the Tessuti blog is extraordinary.

Annnnd another great make from Overflowing Stash. She’s not thrilled with her mega high waisted trousers but I think they’re stunning… and I love the break down of fit adjustments.

Did someone say mega high waisted? Oh, that was Tasha, who made the sexiest, pinup-iest Ginger Jeans I ever did see.

This linen jacket from Girls in the Garden is yummy.

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Japanese inspired cross-back apron fromt he Sewing Happiness Book by Sanae Ishida // Closet Case Files

CROSS-BACK APRON FROM SEWING HAPPINESS + GIVEAWAY TO MISS MATATABI


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Japanese inspired cross-back apron fromt he Sewing Happiness Book by Sanae Ishida // Closet Case Files

You’re not often confronted with your “apron situation”. I recently was, and the end result was a little embarrassing. For some reason, the only aprons I own are kitschy and weird throwbacks to a time when women suspended a lot of weird things in jello. Ten years ago I used to find it funny to pick up, say, a mustard yellow floor length apron with white lace trim at the thrift store (70’s pioneer chic), and wear this at Thanksgiving to amuse my friends. But recently I was baking up a storm and covered in flour (as you do), and when I pulled out my sad, stained, thrift store collection of aprons I knew it was time for a change. While aprons aren’t really the sort of thing you’d think to spend money on, they are the PERFECT thing to make when you have a spare hour or two.  For that reason, I was very excited to tackle the cross-back apron project from Sanae Ishida’s new book Sewing Happiness (I reviewed it here earlier in the week).

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