Hope you had a languorous, relaxing weekend. I decided it was time to set-up a photography studio in my apartment (it’s too cold to go outside for the next 6 months!) and scored these softbox lights for a song on Kijiji. Can’t wait to start playing around with them!
In our last post, we learned how to install the fly front zipper for our Ginger Jeans. Today is an easier day. We’ll be attaching the yoke to the back leg, sewing the center back seam and basting our pockets into place.
To get started, pin each yoke to each leg. The longer side of the yoke is the CB seam, in case you get confused.
One thing to keep in mind is that you want to align your pieces based on where you will be stitching rather than the edges of the fabric. When you line up the pieces based on the seam allowance, you will have little wedges of the yoke that extend past the leg. However, after you sew the line and press your seam allowances down, you should have nice clean lines along the hip and center back.
Once you’ve sewn both yokes, finish your seam allowance with an overlock, zig zag or flat fell seam finish.
Press your seams down and sew two rows of topstitching along the top edge of your leg.
Normally this is the point at which you would topstitch your back pockets onto the legs. However, since this is likely the first time you’ve made these jeans, you don’t know exactly where you want those pockets yet. Every bum is as unique as it’s owner, so I prefer to baste the pockets down for the time being. Once the jeans are more fully assembled, we can decide if the location works or not; if we need to move them around a bit, the basting stitches are easy to remove. Matching the small circle markings that indicate pocket placement, align the back pockets that we assembled earlier in the sewalong and sew a basting line around the sides and bottom of each at 1/4″. Keep in mind that the slightly curved pocket edge should be on the center back side.
Once both of your pockets have been basted to each leg, line up the legs along the center back seam and sew at the 5/8″ seam allowance. Complete using your seam finish of choice. Again, my serger was having timing issues so please forgive the shoddy serging in the pic below.
Press the seam to the left (or the right on the inside). I like pressing on my sleeve board to get around the crotch curve. Use your clapper if you have one to get those seams nice and flat.
We are going to add two rows of topstitching to this seam. There is a bit of a height difference where the yokes are attached to the legs, so this is when you may want to use your humper jumper or a piece of folded cardboard to help your foot sew an even line. As you approach the seam, prop the back of your foot up with whatever you’re using and continue sewing. Remove the humper jumper after you’ve sewn over the thicker seam.
And voila! You back is now assembled. I’ll be Monday to help you sew your side seams. We’ll also nail down the pocket placement at that point. Have a great weekend!
Let’s take a little sewalong break, shall we? Because today I saw that Amy at Cloth Habit finally dropped her new pattern and I couldn’t wait to show you my new Watson Bra!
Amy is the reason I started making my own lingerie; her bra sewalong last year was so detailed, thoughtful and smart, and I seriously cannot get enough of her colour sense and design aesthetic. We share a love for 1970’s style, in particular the sexy, insouciant glamour of 70’s lingerie, so I was super elated when I heard her first pattern was inspired by this period. Full disclosure: Amy and I are pals. We’ve been there for each other over the last few months, since pattern-making can be a lonely and frustrating business from time to time. It’s been lovely having someone to talk about crotch curves with, share information, and in general be an encouraging support system when needed.
I was sort of an informal tester for this pattern. After I launched Ginger, I needed a break from making jeans so I asked to have a sneak peak at Watson to give my hands a denim break. I haven’t made any new bras in a while and everything I have is getting a little raggedy; perfect timing to make an easy, breezy bra doncha think?
I have been stockpiling lingerie fabric and notions for the last year, so thankfully I had everything I needed to make Watson in my stash. I chose a purple mesh, a pretty scalloped elastic for the top edge, and some standard bra strap and band elastic, all in black. Since the band needs to be less stretchy, I doubled up the mesh there, but the cups are a single layer and the cradle is lined. I made a 34D in the longline version and didn’t bother making a proper muslin with this bra because I trust Amy’s grading; I wasn’t disappointed. The fit is fantastic. The cups are flawless and the cradle lays perfectly beneath my bust. I’ve had some issues in the past with bra fit when there wasn’t an under-wire present to cradle the girls, but I was pleasantly surprised by how well the cradle worked. Amy doesn’t call for adding stretch to the cup elastic, but I think my particular elastic could gave used a touch of stretch at the top; the scalloped trim doesn’t lie perfectly flat, especially under my arms. For my next version, I may lengthen the band by about 1cm, but otherwise I’m really happy. If it wasn’t so sheer I would have tried to model it for you, but you guys really don’t need to see the nips.
While I like the support it gives, it’s not a big, pushup-y padded bra that we’re probably more used to wearing. It’s more of a natural “these are my boobs, but prettier” look and I’m super into it. My explorations in bra making has taught me that I much prefer celebrating what I actually have, rather than trying to make the girls look like something they’re not, if that makes any sense. And not to be too TMI or anything, but the fella, who is not normally into lingerie, was pretty delighted when I flashed him.
Construction wise, this is a pretty simple pattern to assemble. The instructions are really thorough and I think it’s a perfect introduction to lingerie making because there is no under-wire; in my opinion channeling is the hardest thing to sew but you don’t have to worry about it here. I have a bunch more planned since I can whip one up in a few hours – I have this crazy silver spandex that I’d like to use to make a pretty bralette with a regular band to wear under drapey tops. The pattern also includes a pair of bikini undies (I will NOT say the “P” word) but my big booty is really a boy shorts only sort of situation so I didn’t bother making a pair. I’d like to make a matching pair of Ladyshorts with some leftover mesh so I’ll have a matching set since that pattern really works for my caboose.
Anyway, I really, truly love this pattern. It’s a unique design and a great alternative to more traditional bras. What about you? Think you’d like to give the Watson Bra a try?