Article

GINGER SEWALONG PT 9: ASSEMBLING THE BACK


back-seams

Ginger Jeans Sewalong: Assembling the back legs

In our last post, we learned how to install the fly front zipper for our Ginger Jeans. Today is an easier day. We’ll be attaching the yoke to the back leg, sewing the center back seam and basting our pockets into place.

To get started, pin each yoke to each leg. The longer side of the yoke is the CB seam, in case you get confused.

Ginger Jeans Sewalong: Assembling the back legs

One thing to keep in mind is that you want to align your pieces based on where you will be stitching rather than the edges of the fabric. When you line up the pieces based on the seam allowance, you will have little wedges of the yoke that extend past the leg. However, after you sew the line and press your seam allowances down, you should have nice clean lines along the hip and center back.

ginger skinny jeans pattern - sewing the back seams-2

Once you’ve sewn both yokes, finish your seam allowance with an overlock, zig zag or flat fell seam finish.

Ginger Jeans Sewalong: Assembling the back legs

Press your seams down and sew two rows of topstitching along the top edge of your leg.

ginger skinny jeans pattern - sewing the back seams-6

Normally this is the point at which you would topstitch your back pockets onto the legs. However, since this is likely the first time you’ve made these jeans, you don’t know exactly where you want those pockets yet. Every bum is as unique as its owner, so I prefer to baste the pockets down for the time being. Once the jeans are more fully assembled, we can decide if the location works or not; if we need to move them around a bit, the basting stitches are easy to remove. Check out the post on back pocket placement for tips on how to best flatter your derriere.

Matching the small circle markings that indicate pocket placement, align the back pockets that we assembled earlier in the sewalong and sew a basting line around the sides and bottom of each at 1/4″. Keep in mind that the slightly curved pocket edge should be on the center back side.

attaching back pockets

basting the back pocket

Once both of your pockets have been basted to each leg, line up the legs along the center back seam and sew at the 5/8″ seam allowance. Complete using your seam finish of choice. Again, my serger was having timing issues so please forgive the shoddy serging in the pic below.

sewing the center back seam

sewing center back seam

Press the seam to the left (or the right on the inside). I like pressing on my sleeve board to get around the crotch curve. Use your clapper if you have one to get those seams nice and flat.

pressing center back seam

We are going to add two rows of topstitching to this seam. There is a bit of a height difference where the yokes are attached to the legs, so this is when you may want to use your humper jumper or a piece of folded cardboard to help your foot sew an even line. As you approach the seam, prop the back of your foot up with whatever you’re using and continue sewing. Remove the humper jumper after you’ve sewn over the thicker seam.

humper jumperGinger Jeans Sewalong: Assembling the back legs

And voila! You back is now assembled.

For a more indepth and easy to read jeans-making course, try our Sewing Your Own Jeans ebook:

Learn how to Sew Jeans // Sewing Your Own Jeans ebook // Closet Case Files

  • Heather Petersen

    This doesn’t have anything to really do with the sew a long, but…I was wondering if you’ve done a 70s wide leg version yet? I’m so in love with that silhouette.

    And I have all my supplies to start on my own jeans now. So excited!

    • I was totally planning on one! Someone in the flickr group did a wide leg by extending the wide calf adjustment to make flares!

  • My goodness you’re making this look unnervingly straightforward! Great demo!

  • Amy

    One of my funnier sewing moments was definitely trying to find pocket placement. I was walking around the house with pockets pinned on and staring at my butt in every mirror…

  • erm, um, the dominant crotch seam is going from side seam to side seam, rather than front to back?

    • Not sure what you mean?

      • I was going to say that in most trouser instructions, the inside leg seams are sewn, then the seam from front to back is sewn (so the dominant continual seam is the one from the zipper through to the back seam). Or there is a workaround where some of the crotch seam is sewed, the side seams are done, and then the crotch seam is finished.

        And then I drop my RTW pants and look inside: it’s from side to side. Like you have it in the Ginger.

        (I do love it when I’m wrong)

        • Hahaha. Yes, as far as I know, this is the way I’ve always seen jeans assembled. Probably has something to do with all the topstitching.

  • SJSM

    When I can’t find my hump jumper, I use the plastic package the denim needles come in. It is usually just the right height to compensate for the crossed seams. If I have two packs of needles I put the second pack in front when I need it and let the back needle pack slide out as the seam is sewn. Works for me.

    • Super clever! I’ll have to remember that one!