In our last post, we learned how to install the fly front zipper for our Ginger Jeans. Today is an easier day. We’ll be attaching the yoke to the back leg, sewing the center back seam and basting our pockets into place.
To get started, pin each yoke to each leg. The longer side of the yoke is the CB seam, in case you get confused.
One thing to keep in mind is that you want to align your pieces based on where you will be stitching rather than the edges of the fabric. When you line up the pieces based on the seam allowance, you will have little wedges of the yoke that extend past the leg. However, after you sew the line and press your seam allowances down, you should have nice clean lines along the hip and center back.
Once you’ve sewn both yokes, finish your seam allowance with an overlock, zig zag or flat fell seam finish.
Press your seams down and sew two rows of topstitching along the top edge of your leg.
Normally this is the point at which you would topstitch your back pockets onto the legs. However, since this is likely the first time you’ve made these jeans, you don’t know exactly where you want those pockets yet. Every bum is as unique as its owner, so I prefer to baste the pockets down for the time being. Once the jeans are more fully assembled, we can decide if the location works or not; if we need to move them around a bit, the basting stitches are easy to remove. Check out the post on back pocket placement for tips on how to best flatter your derriere.
Matching the small circle markings that indicate pocket placement, align the back pockets that we assembled earlier in the sewalong and sew a basting line around the sides and bottom of each at 1/4″. Keep in mind that the slightly curved pocket edge should be on the center back side.
Once both of your pockets have been basted to each leg, line up the legs along the center back seam and sew at the 5/8″ seam allowance. Complete using your seam finish of choice. Again, my serger was having timing issues so please forgive the shoddy serging in the pic below.
Press the seam to the left (or the right on the inside). I like pressing on my sleeve board to get around the crotch curve. Use your clapper if you have one to get those seams nice and flat.
We are going to add two rows of topstitching to this seam. There is a bit of a height difference where the yokes are attached to the legs, so this is when you may want to use your humper jumper or a piece of folded cardboard to help your foot sew an even line. As you approach the seam, prop the back of your foot up with whatever you’re using and continue sewing. Remove the humper jumper after you’ve sewn over the thicker seam.
And voila! You back is now assembled.
For a more indepth and easy to read jeans-making course, try our Sewing Your Own Jeans ebook: