Flared Ginger Jeans + Sutton Blouse

Flared Jeans // Ginger Jeans Pattern expansion // Closet Core Patterns

Happy 2016! I hope it’s started off well for you. I’ve loved seeing all of your ambitious sewing plans for the coming year, and am so grateful for the amazing response to my last post on sewing confidence; I was a little nervous to hit publish, but it seems like quite a few of you appreciated the pep talk. Here’s to facing the “scary” projects and conquering our fears this coming year!

Today I’m excited to share the flared jeans pattern I’ve been working on; truly Ginger is the pattern that keeps on giving. If you’ve been in a retail store lately, you’ve probably noticed that flares are having a real moment right now; the 70s revival is going strong and when I was in New York last fall they were everywhere. I’m loving the look; there is something so fresh about a wider leg after years of making and wearing skinnies. I made these babies back in November during the Ginger jeans class I taught at the workroom in Toronto. I was feeling super inspired by this gorgeous Louis Vuitton ad from last fall, and tried to replicate all that creative topstitching.


I had been planning on releasing a flare jeans pattern this spring with some fun 70’s details, but shifted gears and decided instead to simply offer a flare leg expansion for the Ginger pattern. This should be helpful for those of you who don’t want to draft them on your own (instructions to do this are included in the Sewing Your Own Jeans ebook, fyi).

These ones here are actually more of a mid-rise Ginger. I’m planning on doing a tutorial  this month on lowering the rise if you want something in between the low and the high. I also drafted them with an extra wide hem because they feel a little more trousery, and I like a wide hem on trousers. To get the 4 lines of topstitching along the inseam, rather than serging the seam and pressing it forward like usual, I serged both seam allowances individually, pressed them open, and then stitched two double lines of topstitching along each side of the seam. I also did a slightly wider topstitched seam along the side, and angled it into the seam to finish rather than doing my typical bar tack (sort of like how I finish the shoulder seams on the Clare Coat). It’s these little details that make sewing your own jeans so much fun; there is no end to personalization.


Of course I used my beloved Cone denim; it’s the heavier weight stuff from one of our kits. The 12 oz denim has the perfect body for the flare shape, and of course they don’t need to be washed very often since they don’t really stretch out with wear.

Flare bootcut jeans pattern2  Ginger Flared jeans pattern

And check out these pretty guts! I used a Vlisco wax print, which is far and away my favourite lining choice these days. The waistband is interfaced with knit fusible and it’s very soft and comfy with the cotton facing, although you can see it peeking out slightly from the right side. I also thought I was being very clever with these “X” shaped belt loops, but someone in class said they were reminiscent of Parasuco jeans and I shuddered for approximately 30 minutes after. It was too late to un-X them by that point so I’ve learned to live with it.

Ginger jeans pocket lining and waistband facing

I also finally had a chance to sew up this silk Sutton blouse. I had it cut and ready to go for months but kept putting it off because silk has needs; you really have to be in a romantic, loving mood to sew it. This lovely ikat print was a gift from Sonja the first time she came to visit Montreal; I think there was just over a yard and I managed to squeeze it all out with some creative cutting. The only change I made was to lower the V-neckline a little as it was slightly too high for my taste as drafted.

Sutton Blouse by True Bias1Sutton Blouse by True Bias2

Are you into the 70’s revival happening? Would you like to dip your toe into the flare jeans trend or you firmly rooted in the skinny camp? Think you’ll have ago at the Ginger Flares?


Core Fabrics


Closet Core Patterns

Hi! I'm Heather Lou, a pattern designer and sewing educator for the modern maker. At Closet Core Patterns, we transform your imagination into step-by-step implementation that helps you create a wardrobe you love - not one you're limited to buying off the rack.

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